Shortly after riding out from Offenbach we saw this group rowing along the Main. Had to up our speed a fair bit to get ahead of them so we could take a picture.
The further we go from the Frankfurt area, the more rural things are. The cycle route passes by (but not through) lots of small towns, and occasionally large industrial sites.
As we pass by towns, there are always signs pointing to places to stop: cafes, Weingartens, and of course Biergartens. Gelato and ice cream are always good, but German pastries can't be beat.
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| apple and apricot cakes: yum! |
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| river crossing |
Near and in the towns, there are many gardens bordering on the cycle path. Some are private and connected to houses, but many look like community gardens. A wonderful mix of flowers and vegetables. Frequently there are benches and tables in the gardens where people can sit and enjoy.
By mid-afternoon we arrived in Aschaffenburg, home to a very large castle. The first hotel we tried was full, but the desk clerk recommended another just a few blocks away. Unfortunately, his directions to get there included walking the bike up and over a railroad track. The stairs have a ramp to the side for bike wheels, but it was three flights of both of us pushing up, and all our strength (even using brakes) to hold the bike on the descent. Not an experience we want to repeat. As soon as we'd checked in, the rain started to come down, so the bike quickly went into their garage.
Ellen was feeling intermittent foot pain all day, at the top of the foot near the ankle, and we were both a little worried about what this might mean for continuing on a long bike tour. I did a little Google reading in the evening and decided to try moving her cleats back (toward the heel). This seems to have taken care of the problem.
The rain continued on and off all night, and it was still raining (but not too heavily) when we wheeled out in the morning. With help from the hotel we found a better way back over the tracks, and rode out of town very carefully on the wet cobblestones. Right at the edge of town the path crossed back over the river to provide this view of the castle.
The terrain around the river channel is becoming more hilly, and we are seeing terraces of wine grapes.
As we continued along the path we saw our first (other) tandem at one of the many rest areas next to the path, so of course we had to stop to talk.
This husband and wife team have about 12K km touring, mostly in Germany, on theirs. They tandem because she has very limited vision.
By mid-afternoon we rolled into Miltenberg, a very quaint and historic little town at a bend along the Main. The river cruise ships stop here, and the cobbled street through the center of town was packed with tourists, which made for interesting riding. After a little calling around we found a room in the Riesen Hotel, which dates to the twelfth century and has been an inn since the 15th. Emperor Barbarossa of the Holy Roman Empire stayed there in 1158.
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| Hotel Riesen |
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| breakfast room |
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| our room |
Scenes around Miltenberg
Next day we left in morning fog to continue up the Main.
We stopped for lunch in another quaint town, Wertheim.
We ended the day in Marktheidenfeld, and have a lovely little hotel right on the river. We decided to take a day off from riding here to let our sore butts recover a bit before we continue toward Wurzburg.
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