We enjoyed a relaxing afternoon walking around in Wertheim. The hotel where we stayed is popular with cycle tourists, and the bike storage room was absolutely packed with about 20 bikes. Because we arrived early in the afternoon we'd parked the tandem in the back. When we went to retrieve it in the morning there were still about ten bikes in front; another cyclist helped me lift it over other bikes and get it to the door.
From Wertheim the route heads south following the Tauber River. The first part of this day's ride had several short (a few hundred yards) but impressively steep hills, both up and down. Riding through forests provided a welcome relief from the high heat and humidity.
We are seeing more cycle tourists now. My theory is that a lot skip the first stage out of Wertheim to avoid the climb. Most are going he opposite direction to us. I wonder what they know that we don't.
Stopped in a little town for a pastry and large (1.5 l) bottle of mineral water. It's hard to stay hydrated in this heat.
We rolled into Bad Mergentheim early afternoon, and after cleaning up and grabbing a snack we walked around a bit. Such a lovely place we decided to stay two nights. There's a nifty museum in the old castle (founded by an order of knights after they returned from the Crusades), a large, amazingly beautiful and manicured park, and the mineral baths for which the town is known.
The park has extensive rose gardens, including displays of this hybrid named for the Romantische Strasse.
Next morning we discovered is a local religious holiday, and the pedestrian area of the old town center was decorated with intricate displays made from flowers and other plant matter.
The museum tells the story of the city (and castle) founding. One fun display had a reproduction period coat and wig to put on for photos. Here I am with a couple of what I'm sure are relatives.
The park is amazingly manicured, and full of sculpture (in the usual places and sometimes hanging in trees).
No photos of the thermal baths, but it's an amazing place. There are four large pools with warm water (one outside) plus two smaller and hotter ones. Each pool is from a different spring and has different chemical composition. There are a variety of jets that cycle on and off. Very well organized place and a great way to spend a couple of hours.
Today was a slightly longer stage to Rothenburg O.B.T. Weather is much cooler (70s) after thunderstorms last evening. There were some good cruncher hills, but nothing we couldn't handle until the final climb up to the city (on top of a hill, of course). We rode all but the last steep and cobblestone bit.
Rothenburg is the most touristy place we've been by far. Streets are lined with souvenir shops and packed with visitors. Pictures will follow in a subsequent post.
Did I mention that the navigation can be tricky on the Romantische Strasse? Here's a bike route sign from Bad Mergentheim.
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