Continuing up the Mosel: Burg Eltz and Zell

Technical difficulties over the last couple of days have kept me offline, but now I'm back with lots to share.

We took a day off the bike in Treis so we could hike to the nearby castle Burg Eltz, which has been in existence and owned by the same family for 900 years.  We were told it was a reasonable walk from Treis.  I punched it into Google Maps for walking directions and off we went.  The route took us across the river and then a little ways down the main road before turning uphill.  When we arrived at the spot to turn off, there was a barricade across, but we could see a faint trail heading uphill so we gave it a try.  We started climbing steep and crumbling steps, but before long we were in heavy brush and unable to continue.  

We retreated back to the town of Karden (just across the river from Treis), found the correct trail, and off we went.  It was a strenuous climb through forests, then rolling through farmland (wheat and corn), and finally a steep descent and reclimb to the castle.

Looking down on Karden and Treis (across the river)

The castle tour was fascinating; unfortunately as is common no photos were permitted inside.  But the outside is pretty cool.  

The castle sits at the top of a promontory mostly surrounded by a deep ravine: very defensible.  Our hike to and from the castle was 10 miles.

Next day we got back on the bike to continue up the Mosel to Zell (50 km for the day).  The cycling in this part of the Mosel is wonderful.  Most of the time we are on lovely paved paths along the river.  Every few kilometers there is a town to check out (or stop for a snack).  

At one point we saw a critter cross the path: dark brown and looked like a weasel or pine marten (which aren't in Germany, but similar size and look).  We called ahead and reserved a room at the Schloss Hotel in Zell, which is in an old castle dating from the 1500s.  Plumbing and electrical have been updated.

To our surprise there was a  sign by the stairs left of the hotel entrance indicating the old Zell synagogue.  The hotel clerk gave us a key and we were able to see what's left of the former Jewish community in Zell, which was in existence from the middle ages until 1938.  The room contains a few artifacts: a fragment of Torah, some books and a couple of yarmulkes and tallit.

Zell is ground zero for the Mosel wine industry.  There are more wine bars than restaurants.  There were major fires in the mid 1800s that burned much of the town so there aren't many old buildings (our hotel is one of the only survivors).  We had dinner in Zell in a Vietnamese restaurant.  Go figure.